ChevyII Gauge Cluster

this shows the modifications i performed on a '62 ChevyII instrument cluster for my '64 ChevyII "the FLYER Special". i'm using 5" Autometer "Phantom" gauges but other 5" gauges can be used, with a drill press and simple hand tools this modification can be easily done... just be careful and take your time... good luck !!!

this is a stock '62 instrument cluster assembly. flip it over and remove the screws that attach metal gauge housing to the plastic bezel, also remove stock instruments/gauges. they will no longer be used. this modification process requires power tools. safety equipment should be always used and work area cleaned often of debris. be careful and concentrate at all times.

you need the top piece in the picture to hold the gauge panel assy into the dashboard and to secure gauges. to cut the top/cap off, i used my Makita 4" grinder with a cutoff wheel. scribe/draw a line 1/16" below the edge of flat surface and cut/leave the line... remove the top. try to cut it as close to the top as you can and cut it flat. dress/smooth edges. safety equipment should always be used, all tools respected.

the cluster housing has 4 factory tabs that you need to screw the assembly into the dashboard. but you need to trim the panel below the edge of two of them as shown. don't remove any of the tab. see the tabs that are facing the work bench for example of how the housing tabs look after trimming. always wear safety equipment and don't rush the job. the work that is being done is it, so be very careful... the top cap when gone is the only cut you get. the trimming should be kept as close to non existant as you can. once done smooth/dress edges and paint if desired.

i roughed in the bezel with my angle drill with a small cutoff wheel... look closely at the left hole compared to the right side. see the 3 steps tapering the hole smaller ??? cut off the middle diameter ring but leave the lip as shown in the left side hole. feed into the bezel with cutoff wheel just enough to remove the ring, if not careful you can cut through into the outside edge of bezel and it'll ruin it. Be Careful.. the rough edge will be cleaned up on the drill press... it needs to be flat for proper gauge fitment. and of course, wear safety equipment and clean area of debris often, no need to rush the job.

i set my drill press on high speed and installed a cutoff wheel. be very careful and take your time. the middle ring's edge that was left needs to be removed and it must be flat with the panels inner surface... remember, you're not just cutting it, the tool is cutting and melting the bezel's plastic... go slow and don't generate too much heat, you don't want the wheel's heat to melt the bezel. i left a piece of the lip debris to show how much material is being cleaned on the drill press. it's not very thick. the distance of the ring in relation to the inside edge of the bezel's edge is very close. don't cut anything other than the ring. safety equipment and debris clean up is a must. take your time with the job and be careful.

next we'll open up the hole to fit the gauge... it'll almost fit right now, but gauge will be slightly off center... we're going to fix that next... safety safety safety.

once again, with the drill press set on high speed... very slowly, take little bites with the stone and grind the material away. keep the hole round and watch where and what you're doing. it'll take more than you want off if you're not careful... it's best to feed against the rotation of the stone. go very slow at all times and concentrate where the bezel is in relation to the stone at all times. in order to get the whole inner diameter round and consistant, you'll need to rotate the bezel so put the stone in the center of opening, turn off the machine and move bezel to new work area... once comfortable with the grinding process you may wish to rotate bezel while the stone is spinning... be very careful you don't hit the tool while you're rotating the bezel. you want to take off material only where you absolutely need to... there's not much extra material so take your time. clean stone and bench often removing debris. and of course, all safety gear is a must. constant test fitment of gauges is very important. the edge of the opening on outside edge of the bezel needs to be opened up considerably more than the other to properly center in the bezels face... the rings around the edge of the bezel as you look at its face are slightly offset. you'll be removing bezel material more on the outside edge of gauge opening to center the gauge in the face of the bezel.

see the slight different coloration of the top of the 5" opening. look at the left edge. it's white. see the slight line or ring that runs in the pic. that's the finished work for the 5". it's very close there to the very outside faces edge of the bezel so be careful during the work in the previous picture/discription. now look at the first shot in this series... the raised area on the bow-tie area ??? drill a hole in it and hog it out... but leave the edge of the raised up area... now with the grinding stone in the drill press... grind the balance of the raised up area away till you see it ribbon like in this shot... you've got it at just the right size for the smaller 2-1/16" gauge... remember, constant test fitting and eyeballing while performing these mods will explain just where and how much to remove... do not remove more than is needed... and again, safety a must

the guage bezels edge needs to match the ring on the stocker bezel. constant test fitting will ensure a proper matchup of these units. take your time and grind accordingly to center the gauge to match the edges.

the speedo is on the left, tach on right. i trimmed the depth of the speedo hold down bracket and also modified the tach hold down bracket. the factory gauge panel is also modified to allow the tach's hold down to pass through it and secure tach... see the right side of the tach hold down, that's where you cut/grind an opening for the hold down to pass through... take your time and remember safety first

here it is in the dash ta give ya an idea of what it'll look like. i still need to install the 5/16 blinkers and the oil pressure idiot light. the bezel will be cleaned, prepped and painted too... not much safety equipment here... just don't scratch your paint.

the main cluster is still missing the turn indicators and oil pressure idiot light. the picture also shows the radio delete plate modifications.

another picture of the modified '62 bezel.

another Great candidate for the conversion... ACADIAN !!! this will place center gauge lower than the ChevyII and turn signal indicators are already present. there is a clock hole stopper to deal with though... i have not done a modification on an Acadian bezel so i have no information if this particular bezel will or will not work.

contact: john@jollyrodder.com

thanks for viewing !!!

a constant work in progress